Saturday, October 27, 2012

Should have known better


After a great day in Agra, a small supper in the lounge at the Hilton, we got a great night's sleep. We rode by taxi through the streets of Delhi -- this time in the daylight -- and got to the airport 3 hours early. A short flight to Kathmandu was all we had to worry about.

We located the flight on the screen and headed for our gate. Lots of dark haired people in line, but what else to expect in this part of the globe? Pat began to sense a lot of testosterone around before 2 Western women finally got in line too. But most of the dark haired men turned out to be Afghans, trying to get tickets to Kabul. Their gate was right next to ours. It soon became clear that they could not read English and only knew the letter K, as they kept putting their luggage on the scales for the Kathmandu flight, going to the ticket agent for Kathmandu, and driving the ticket agents mad. They also were clearly overweight on their luggage, dumping stuff out on the floor, rearranging, repacking, re-weighing (on "our" scales) and generally wrecking havoc.  And LOUD. I thought Americans were loud, but these guys were crazy. They had bought half the clothes in India to take back to wives and daughters, from the stuff we saw pulled out of their bags.

We stood in line behind a couple of young Napali guys, who were alternately laughing at the Afghans and being annoyed at all the line cutting. At last, they pushed their luggage cart right up against the scale and loaded their stuff. Pat caught one guy's attention and gave him two thumbs up. He grinned.

We followed and got our boarding passes. The clerk included a couple of luggage tags as well, but all our bags were tagged, so we left them on the counter.
After prayers to the ATM god, as we began to call it, we headed to security. No problem till we got to the luggage check area. "Where are your tags? You must have tags!" a guard snarled at us. We tried to show our luggage tags, but it was clear he meant the ones we'd left at the ticket counter. "Stand over there," he barked, and we sheepishly obeyed. Doug tried to find luggage tags on this side of security, the guard had someone phone an inquiry, and they finally let us put our carry-on bags in the bins for inspection. We thought we were OK, but no. They would not let us leave the area even after our bags had cleared. No Tags! And they found Doug's small hiking bag inside his overnighter: "Another Bag! Where's the tag?" For the first time in our lives, we thought we would not be allowed onto the plane. Finally, grudgingly, they sent us to the gate. But we figured we'd never get on the plane without the tags, so Doug once again went in search of them. No luck, but folks at other airlines told him not to worry. When Air India staff showed up, they would give us tags and our luggage would be re-inspected at the gate. We still worried, but it seemed as if we'd be OK.

Meanwhile, the Afghans were at the next gate, loud and boisterous as before. I heard an announcement: Air India flight so-and-so to Kabul is changed from Gate 20 A to Gate 12. The message was repeated in Hindi, but not in Arabic, so the guys kept up their ruckus and really seemed to be having a great time. But the gate change was announced several more times and they didn't move. Finally, someone came personally to tell them, and tho they seemed skeptical,  they gathered up their stuff and went. Quiet!

As for us, we got in line to board and saw a few other people ahead of us get their luggage inspected and get on the plane. We began to feel better. Then, the security officer looked at our bags, stamped the tags, and started to let us go. "Purse!" she demanded. "Where's the tag for purse?"  Oops. She marched off, grabbed a tag from another airline's desk, attached it to Pat's purse, and we boarded. 

Just when you thought you had everything under control...


  We met an American couple boarding the plane in Paris, who just happened to be sitting in the row right in front of us. We got acquainted during the long flight (8 hours or so). As we were leaving Immigration in India to pick up our luggage, Karen and I got to talking. They were going to the same hotel. Perhaps we could share a cab?
  Couldn't do that, since they were with a tour and being picked up by limo service. But we decided to see whether we could pay and ride along. That would have worked well, except the limo was stuck in traffic and we spent nearly an hour waiting for it. By now it was midnight. The tour guide said he'd get a taxi for us, since our morning start time was so early. He flagged a taxi with 2 young men in it and said they'd take us to our hotel for 550 rupees. Sounded good. We hopped in. Just outside the terminal area, the cab pulled off to the side of the road. "Pay me 2550 rupees," the passenger seat guy said. We protested, but they had usl. So we forked over 2000 rupees more than we should have, making the taxi ride price nearly equivalent to US prices. The passenger got out, and I'll bet he went back to the airport and did it again.
  We went through some pretty deserted-looking parts of Delhi before finally getting to the Hilton. I thought for a while we were being kidnapped and no one would ever see us again! (Hotwire.com has awesome prices on 5 star hotels.) But we arrived safe and sound and slept very fast, waking at 4:30 to catch the train.

Agra, the Taj Mahal and Agra fort

The fast train from Dehli
After an 18 hour flight from the Quad Cities to Delhi, India we finally arrive in Delhi at 110:30 pm. We decided a month ago to take a tour of the Taj Mahal in Agra the next day since we had one day layover in Delhi.  The only hitch is that the tour leaves our hotel at 5 am and we didn't get to sleep until 1:15 am.  We met our driver at 5 am and left for Agra at 6 am, right on  time.  The two hour ride across the Indian countryside was enjoyable and we had a light breakfast served on the train.  We were met again at the train station in Agra by the travel company, which took us to a hotel where we could freshen up.  Great service by the company and a pleasant introduction to India.
Our guide - Sunny

We met our guide - Sunny - and we're off to the Taj. Sunny was well - sunny- a great guide extremely knowledgeable about the Taj and the history of the Mogul empire  We had great conversations about the Islamic art and architecture.  One thing that impressed me is the similarity of the Taj to the Registan in Sammarkand.  The key difference is that the Registan is covered with colored tiles while the Taj is covered in a local white marble that is extremely hard and durable.
Sunny explains the details
The designs are inlaid onyx and semi precious stones.  The overall design is a representation of heaven from a Sufi perspective.  The builder got several Sufi mystics together and had them describe what heaven is like.  It is a true wonder of the world and well worth the time it took to get here.   He also arranged a professional photographer to do a photo shoot.  He knew alll the good spots and we ended up with an album of prints and a CD to go with it.  It was reasonable - about $50.  I spent more than that at JCPenny's portrait studio for 3 pictures.  Anyway it was our 45th anniversary of knowing each other so now we have a souvenir.

Next up was the Agra fort of Ankbar the great.  Ankbar had three wives; one was Muslim, one was Jewish, and the other Hindu.  This was evident in the religious symbols carved into the sandstone and marble walls.  Ankbar held a great religious conference with scholars and theologians from all over the world, who met and declared they were all using different language to describe the same faith.  I asked Sunny how many followers are there today of Anbar - none was the answer.  Even in Ankbar's time he only had 20 disciples.